Canary Islands Winemaking Faces 'Extreme Difficulties' Amid Vineyard Decline
Canary Islands winemaking faces "extreme difficulties," having lost a third of its vineyards in a decade and seeing production plummet, threatening its future amidst issues like neglected plant health and insufficient modernization support.
Winemaking in the Canary Islands is facing "extreme difficulties," with a sharp drop in production and a worrying loss of vineyard land. An analysis by [Name of your media outlet], which includes insights from a leading winery like Viñátigo, reveals that the archipelago has lost a third of its vineyards in the last decade, shrinking by about 300 hectares each year. This situation seriously threatens the future of winemaking, making it hard for new generations to take over and for businesses to survive, despite the industry's deep historical roots.
Currently, the islands produce less than five million kilograms of grapes. Experts say this figure should be much higher – between 20 and 25 million kilograms – given the approximately 6,000 hectares of existing vineyards. This large gap in production is due to several factors. A major issue is the absence of a plant health program, a request from the industry that the government has ignored for over fifteen years. Without certified, virus-free plant material, the vines are weaker, produce less, and are more vulnerable to harsh weather conditions like droughts.
Critics also point to past management failures, which did not effectively promote a shift towards sustainable and eco-friendly practices. Instead, chemical treatments and herbicides continued to be used, harming soil health and weakening the vines. There has also been a lack of support for modernizing vineyards to allow for some mechanization, which is essential for reducing costs and improving profitability.
The recent discovery of phylloxera in the Canary Islands, an insect previously unknown in the region, adds another layer of complexity. Although its behavior here is unusual, only appearing above ground, its presence might act as a "catalyst" to push the industry and government to urgently address the much-needed modernization and health improvements for vineyards.
Amidst these challenges, Bodegas Viñátigo stands out as an example of innovation and international success. Since inheriting the business in 1990, the winery has transformed from selling wine in large bottles locally in La Guancha (Tenerife) to exporting to over 30 countries, from Tokyo to San Francisco. Viñátigo has been a pioneer in encouraging collaboration, establishing the Islas Canarias Designation of Origin, and creating the collective brand Canary Wine. They have also researched and revived native grape varieties. Their international success, driven after the 2008 crisis to diversify markets, is based on the unique qualities of Canarian wines, valued for their diverse volcanic soils, varied microclimates, and rich selection of grape types.
However, businesses feel there is a lack of effective communication with the Ministry of Agriculture. They claim the Ministry prioritizes technical staff from regulatory councils, marginalizing actual wine producers and entrepreneurs. This, they warn, makes it harder to find proper solutions to reverse the decline of Canarian winemaking and secure its future.